Handcrafted 925 silver bugadi online | traditional helix jewellery by aham jewellery
A Bugadi is one of India's most distinctive traditional ear ornaments—designed not for the earlobe, but for the upper cartilage or helix of the ear. Known as Bugudi in Karnataka and Bugadi in Maharashtra, it has been worn across communities in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, with different regions developing their own forms and styles.
The Bugadi has a particularly strong presence in Maharashtra and North Karnataka, where neighbouring regions have shared cultural traditions, jewellery styles and craftsmanship for generations. Its history, however, extends beyond these two regions, with traditional forms also found in South Indian jewellery traditions.
At Aham Jewellery, we have been fascinated by the Bugadi for years. When our founder first noticed someone wearing one, she knew she wanted to have the piercing done herself. Her search eventually led her to a small shop in Commercial Street, Bangalore, where Bugadis were handmade in silver and the piercings were done by hand.
Today, we have reimagined this distinctive piece of Indian jewellery in handcrafted silver, bringing together traditional forms and contemporary designs for those who already have a helix piercing—or are inspired to get one.
What is a Bugadi?
A Bugadi is a traditional Indian ear ornament worn through a piercing in the helix, or upper cartilage, of the ear.
Unlike a conventional earring that sits through the earlobe, a Bugadi is designed around the upper edge of the ear. The traditional form consists of a thin, hollow stem or plug that passes through the piercing and is secured with a screw. Decorative elements may be added at one or both ends, including silver granules, pearls, beads, discs, floral motifs and jhumki-like details.
The name varies across regions:
- Bugudi in Karnataka
- Bugadi in Maharashtra
- Koppu in Tamil Nadu
The Bugadi is also sometimes described today as a Bugadi earring, Bugadi stud or helix jewellery, although its traditional construction is quite different from a conventional stud earring.
Bugadi in Maharashtra and Karnataka
The Bugadi is strongly associated with Maharashtrian jewellery traditions, but it is not exclusively a Maharashtrian ornament.
It has also been worn extensively in Karnataka, particularly North Karnataka, where cultural traditions have long overlapped with those of neighbouring Maharashtra. The two regions share many similarities in language, customs, clothing and jewellery, and the Bugadi is one of the ornaments that reflects this shared heritage.
Across both regions, Bugadis have been made in different forms, from simple elongated designs to elaborate ornaments decorated with pearls, granulation and traditional motifs.
The ornament is also found in other parts of South India, including Tamil Nadu, where the related Koppu forms part of the region's traditional jewellery vocabulary.
Our handcrafted silver Bugadi collection
At Aham Jewellery, we have adapted the traditional Bugadi for contemporary wear while retaining the character of the original ornament.
Our collection of 925 silver Bugadi earrings includes traditional-inspired designs as well as contemporary interpretations, handcrafted by Indian artisans.
You will find Bugadis featuring:
- traditional silver granulation
- pearls and beads
- jhumki-inspired details
- floral and geometric forms
- colourful stones
- contemporary interpretations of traditional Bugadi designs
- 925 sterling silver
Whether you are looking for a silver Bugadi, silver Bugadi earrings or a traditional Bugadi stud, our collection brings this unusual piece of Indian jewellery into the present day.
Traditional forms of the Bugadi
Traditional Bugadis have been made in several distinctive forms depending on their decoration and region.
Lavanga Kadi Bugadi
One of the simplest forms of Bugadi, the Lavanga Kadi takes its shape from a clove—the familiar spice that has long been part of Indian kitchens. Its elongated form is particularly associated with traditional jewellery from Tamil Nadu.
Khaddi Bugudi
The Khaddi Bugudi is characterised by small wire loops forming part of its upper decoration.
Kalashin Bugudi
This form features a cluster of silver granules arranged to resemble a small temple kalash. The granulated form gives it its distinctive appearance.
Moti Bugadi
Moti Bugadi features pearls placed around the ornament. Historically, particular forms of Moti Bugadi were associated with specific traditions and communities, including traditions around marital status.
Jhumki Bugadi
A small jhumki hangs from the lower portion of the Bugadi, bringing movement to the upper ear and combining two recognisable forms of traditional Indian jewellery.
Disc Bugadi
Disc Bugadis feature a decorative disc, often incorporating traditional motifs such as flowers, Lakshmi or the hamsa.
At Aham, many of our designs take inspiration from these traditional forms while adapting them for contemporary jewellery wear.
Why is a Bugadi worn on the helix?
A Bugadi is specifically designed to be worn through a piercing in the upper cartilage of the ear.
The placement gives the Bugadi its distinctive appearance and also allows it to be worn alongside conventional earrings. A simple silver Bugadi can become part of an everyday ear stack, while a more elaborate design with pearls, stones or a jhumki can become a statement piece.
Today, people may refer to the piercing as a helix piercing, upper ear piercing or upper ear cartilage piercing. Some placements may also be described as a vertical helix.
Getting a Bugadi piercing: what you should know
A traditional Bugadi piercing is different from getting a regular earlobe piercing.
Our Bugadi has a 1.5 mm thick stem, so the size and placement of your piercing are important considerations if you intend to wear a traditional Bugadi.
If you are planning to get your piercing specifically for a Bugadi, we recommend discussing the jewellery you intend to wear with an experienced professional before getting the piercing.
How to wear a Bugadi
The Bugadi has a screw mechanism and needs to be opened and closed in the correct direction.
Opens: clockwise
Closes: anti-clockwise
To open the Bugadi, gently turn the front portion clockwise. To close it, turn it anti-clockwise.
Our Bugadis are delicate, handcrafted pieces of jewellery. Please do not force the screw if it feels tight.
We will also WhatsApp you a video demonstrating how to open and close your Bugadi for reference.
Bugadi jewellery for everyday wear
The Bugadi does not have to be reserved for traditional clothing or special occasions.
A simple silver Bugadi can be worn as part of an everyday ear stack, paired with a simple stud, hoop or other earrings. More elaborate Bugadis with pearls, stones or jhumki details can be styled with festive and traditional clothing.
Bugadis can be worn with both Indian and Western clothing. Wear one with a saree, kurta or other Indian attire for a traditional look, or pair it with contemporary clothing for a more unexpected interpretation of Indian jewellery.
Its position on the upper ear means even a small Bugadi can add character without overwhelming the rest of your jewellery.
Bugadi for weddings and festive wear
Bugadis have a natural place within traditional Indian jewellery, particularly when paired with sarees and other festive attire.
Maharashtrian and North Karnataka jewellery traditions share many forms and aesthetics, making the Bugadi an especially beautiful addition to traditional wedding and festive jewellery.
Pearl Bugadis, jhumki Bugadis and more elaborate silver designs can be worn alongside other traditional pieces, while simpler Bugadis can bring a more contemporary touch to festive jewellery.
Bugadi: an old Indian ornament, reimagined
At Aham, we are drawn to jewellery that might otherwise be forgotten.
The Bugadi is one such piece. Once a familiar ornament across several regional jewellery traditions, it is not something you come across often in contemporary jewellery stores.
We first began making Bugadis because customers kept noticing them in photographs of our jewellery. They would send us cropped images and ask, “Are you selling the top earring?”
That was when we realised there was a growing interest in this unusual piece—and decided to explore it ourselves.
Today, our Bugadis are designed as wearable pieces of Indian jewellery, inspired by traditional forms but made for the way jewellery is worn today.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I wear a Bugadi?
Please note that the Bugadi opens clockwise and closes anti-clockwise.
The Bugadi has a screw mechanism that secures it in the ear. To open the Bugadi, gently turn the front portion clockwise. To close it, turn it anti-clockwise.
Our Bugadis are delicate, handcrafted pieces of jewellery. Please do not force the screw if it feels tight. We will also WhatsApp you a video demonstrating how to open and close your Bugadi for reference.
What is the thickness of the Bugadi stem?
The stem of our Bugadi is 1.5 mm thick. This is important to keep in mind when planning your Bugadi piercing, as the piercing needs to accommodate the stem comfortably.
Is Bugadi piercing painful?
A Bugadi piercing goes through cartilage, so you can expect some discomfort or pain during the piercing, followed by some tenderness while it heals. Everyone experiences piercing pain differently.
A traditional Bugadi piercing is also slightly larger than a conventional earring piercing because of the thickness of the jewellery stem.
What is a Bugadi piercing called in English?
A Bugadi piercing is generally called a helix piercing or upper ear cartilage piercing in English. Depending on its exact placement, it may also be described as an upper helix or vertical helix piercing.
Can I get a helix piercing with a thin wire or bali first and wear a traditional Bugadi later?
Yes, you can initially wear simpler jewellery such as a thin wire or bali, but the final size of the Bugadi should be considered before getting your piercing.
Our Bugadi stem is 1.5 mm thick, so if you intend to eventually wear a traditional Bugadi, discuss this with your piercer before getting the piercing. Allow the piercing to heal completely before changing jewellery, and never force a thicker Bugadi into a smaller piercing.
Which is better for a Bugadi piercing: traditional hand piercing or a piercing gun?
For a Bugadi, we recommend traditional hand piercing by an experienced professional using a sterile, single-use piercing needle, rather than a piercing gun.
A cartilage piercing needs accurate placement, and a professional piercer can assess the anatomy of your ear and position the piercing appropriately for the jewellery you intend to wear.
Since a Bugadi has a 1.5 mm stem, planning the piercing around the final jewellery is particularly important.
Can I wear a Bugadi on either ear?
Yes. Bugadi traditionally is worn on both ears just like your earrings. But if you wish, you can also wear it on either ear and not necessarily as a pair.
What is the difference between a Bugadi and an ear cuff?
A Bugadi is designed to be worn through a piercing in the upper cartilage of the ear. An ear cuff generally sits around the edge of the ear without requiring a piercing.
Are Bugadis earrings?
Bugadis are traditional ear ornaments, but they are different from conventional earrings. They are designed specifically for the helix and use a stem and screw mechanism rather than a standard earring post.
Are Aham Bugadis made of 925 silver?
Yes. Our Bugadi collection is handcrafted in 925 sterling silver, with individual designs featuring elements such as pearls, beads, stones and traditional silver detailing.
Do you have silver Bugadi earrings and Bugadi studs?
Yes. Our collection includes a range of handcrafted silver Bugadis, from simple stud-like forms to more elaborate designs inspired by traditional Bugadi jewellery.
Do you have pearl Bugadis?
Our Bugadi collection includes designs featuring pearls and stone settings. You can explore the collection to find the design that suits your style.
Can I wear a Bugadi every day?
Yes, simpler Bugadi designs can be styled for everyday wear, both Indian and Western. The Bugadi is crafted in 92.5 silver, so it will naturally oxidise over a period of time. You can wipe it with a jewellery polishing cloth and wear it again.
Can I wear a Bugadi with a saree?
Absolutely. Bugadis have a long association with traditional Indian jewellery and work particularly beautifully with sarees, including festive and wedding looks. They can also be styled with contemporary clothing for a more modern interpretation.
Can I wear a Bugadi for a wedding?
Yes. More elaborate Bugadis featuring pearls, stones or jhumki-inspired details can complement traditional and bridal jewellery, while simpler silver Bugadis work beautifully for festive and contemporary wedding looks.
Can men wear Bugadis?
Yes. While Bugadis were traditionally worn predominantly by women, they can be worn by both men and women. Like any other piece of jewellery, a Bugadi is not restricted by gender. What matters is the jewellery you like and how you choose to wear it.
Does wearing a Bugadi have health benefits?
There are traditional Ayurvedic and cultural beliefs associated with ear piercing and pressure points around the ear. A Bugadi should be chosen for its jewellery, cultural and aesthetic value rather than as a health treatment.
How do I care for my silver Bugadi?
Store your Bugadi in a dry, airtight pouch when not wearing it. Keep it away from perfumes, sprays, creams and unnecessary contact with water. Gently wipe it with a soft jewellery cloth after wearing.
Because Bugadis are delicate handcrafted pieces, take care when opening and closing the screw mechanism and never force it.
